North America
Going
And long live Mexico...
We left Central America in early May. We were unable to go to El Salvador, due to a bureaucratic issue. The visa, required by the country, would take a long time and we had no guarantees of being approved. We move forward. On another occasion, we could get to know this country. After all, Central America left a good taste of "I want more".
Thus, we move towards the El Carmen border. In Mexico, we were welcomed by immigration and told to pay a fee at a bank in Tapachula, a city near the border. Leaving immigration, we are faced with "fumigation", which is the disinfection of the car, a procedure already familiar, after crossing ten countries. Some of them are very strict in the inspection of the car, as is the case in Chile, but Mexico won by far.
It was necessary to remove absolutely everything from inside the car and from a large luggage compartment that was on the roof. It was a hassle. The fruits we had, we ate right there. But, a can of powdered milk... Ah, this one did justify all the work of the five agents in charge of the search. She was apprehended.
Then they filled out a long form about the action. All this lasted more than an hour. They said the inspection was part of the intensive program to combat foot-and-mouth disease and the "fruit fly." We were only surprised that, as it was a sanitary inspection, it was not necessary to search the bag and personal belongings. In any case, they were very polite and thanked us for our patience.
After this rigorous search, we were finally able to go to Tapachula and pay the bill we owed the country, that is, the immigration fee. Note well, it was necessary to pay by credit card. No money! After that, we went to customs along with a Canadian, his Brazilian wife, and his 10-month-old son, who were traveling in a motor home. This time the procedures were simple and fast. Everything agreed and we were already legally able to circulate the country. We went together to Tapanapetec.
We entered Mexico through the state of Chiapas, famous for the stories of the Zapatista revolutionary movement. The movement was led by "Subcomandante Marcos", who fought for "democracy, freedom, land, bread and justice for the Indians". On the road, we were stopped numerous times by immigration, the army, the federal police, and the health inspection, again. We understand that these searches were due to the proximity of the border.
At the suggestion of the border police, we decided not to cross Mexico along the Pacific coast, as was planned. Authorities warned of the dangers of constant robberies in the region. We accepted the suggestion and went to Oaxaca, Puebla, Mexico City, always heading north. But not before being interrogated and searched throughout the journey. The reason was compliance with a Federal Law in search of weapons and drugs. The army group was made up of young people with bad faces but who, after they knew we were Brazilians, could not resist the curiosity to get to know the car better. They asked about Brazil, about Ronaldinho Gaúcho, women, car prices, etc.
Our biggest scare was when we stopped in a queue to undergo a huge X-ray. Cars and trucks were randomly subjected to this procedure. It was a huge mechanical arm with a powerful X-ray. Fortunately, we were released. It was somewhat frightening to think about the power of these rays, favoring their work, but with great damage to people's health. And so we continued, always straight ahead and being stopped, practically every 100 km, to Oaxaca.
Oaxaca is a historic city, considered a World Heritage Site. We walked through the city center, observing its streets and houses, and visited the market, where we had some interesting gastronomic experiences. We tasted the "mole poblano", made with more than 25 spices and dark chocolate, ate a strange appetizer of fried grasshopper, and fresh cheese, and drank the "Mezcal", a type of brandy from the region. We also tasted the tropical fruits.
The church of Santo Domingo is another interesting attraction. But, it is impossible to be in Oaxaca and not sit in a bar around the two main squares of the city, the Zócalo, and enjoy the movement of the city. This is a state with a lot of diversity of dialects and indigenous peoples.
It is a region that is home to archaeological sites such as Monte Albán, which today is a complex of ruins. Built by the Zapotec civilization it is considered a sacred place. Then it passed to the Mixtec domain and was finally conquered by the Aztecs. Other attractions are the village of Mitla, Hierve el Agua, which are rock formations over 200 meters high and form natural pools, and Tule, with its huge cypress tree of more than 2000 years old.
From Oaxaca, already fully acclimatized, we went to Puebla, the fourth-largest Mexican city. Also known as Ciudad de los Angeles. By the way, it is a city with many religious temples. Legend has it that the 8-ton bells of the Cathedral were placed by angels. But, not only is it a city known for its religious itineraries but also its gastronomy. In the surroundings are archaeological sites and volcanoes such as Malintzin, Popocatépetl, and Iztaccíhuatl.
From Puebla to Mexico City, the road is not long. Therefore, we decided to make it our headquarters. Like the city of São Paulo, the traffic in Mexico City is intense. Pollution can be worse. The gigantism of the city, with its millions of inhabitants, the altitude of 2,500 meters above sea level, and the thermal inversion, the strong smell and burning in the eyes and nose, a consequence of the very dry air of the region, caused us a certain discomfort, after much calmer places where we passed. Despite this, it is a must-see.
The Metropolitan Cathedral dominates the center of Mexico City. Around it are public buildings. The streets are very busy because of the intense commerce. But it was the Museum of Anthropology that dazzled us. It is located in the Chapultepec forest, along with other important museums, galleries, and zoos. The exhibition tells the entire history of the Mexican people, from the pre-classics and classics to the present day. The first rooms are dedicated to the introduction of Anthropology and the growth of Mesoamerican civilization. At the entrance to the museum, there is a huge monolith weighing 217 tons and almost 10 meters high that belonged to the Aztecs. This monolith represents the "god of rain". According to them, when transported to the museum it was accompanied by a real storm, in the middle of the dry season. Among other fantastic things about the museum is the "sun stone" that weighs 24 tons. She has the sun carved into one of her faces. We spent a lot of time there admiring and learning Mexican history. It was impressive!
On Sunday we went to Teotihuacán, without much haste, to visit this huge archaeological site. On Sundays and holidays the historical monuments, museums, and ruins were free admission. Therefore, Tepotzotlan had many visitors. We decided to privilege the Pyramid of the Sun, which is the largest and which made it possible to see the place as a whole. This pyramid has 248 steps to its top and is considered the third largest in the world. The path that crosses in front of you leads to the Pyramid of the Moon. It is more than 2 kilometers long and is called Avenue of the Dead.
We spent the day there and returned to Puebla by a secondary road. We were stopped by police officers who seemed to want to find something wrong. But, the documentation was in order, the car was in order, and we were in order. J So, we decided to follow the main road, which was good because it allowed us to see all the exuberance and grandeur of the Popocatépl volcano. Finally, we arrived back at our comfortable campsite.
In Mexico, we managed to stay in RV Parks, spaces very frequented by Americans and Canadians who travel with their huge motorhomes, Recreational Vehicles, or, simply, RVs. RV Parks are large structures, with absolutely clean bathrooms, a swimming pool, TV, Internet, and restaurants, some with libraries and SPAs with hydromassage. Anyway, some are a luxury!
But the funniest thing was the success that our Land Rover had. First, because it was a different car in that environment. Second, because he was Brazilian. And, let's face it, it looked like a toy in front of the huge parked RVs. With that, many people came to talk to us, learn about us, and our trip, and give tips, some very precious. We were presented with books about parks, highways, and campsites that were useful to us throughout the route.
And it was there, in that same campsite, that we met our dear English friends Mike and Liz (in memoriam). When they saw an English car, our Land Rover, they went to talk to us. After that, we didn't lose contact with the couple anymore. To this day we are friends with Mike. Liz, unfortunately, passed away after living on the road for 15 long years, leaving us nostalgic. On the way back from Alaska to Brazil, we found ourselves again in Mexico. Some time later we received a visit from the couple in São Paulo and Belo Horizonte. They traveled through South America to Ushuaia with the motorhome. We have already visited Mike at his home in England, in a small town near Bath, and met in Europe, while walking through Italy. In addition, we speak regularly on FaceTime, WhatsApp, etc.
Returning to Mexico, our initial itinerary would be through Baja California, but we learned about the high price we would have to pay for the crossing on the Ferry Boat. Thus, we head towards the Pacific Coast (Sea of Cortes).
We arrived in Guadalajara, the second-largest city in Mexico. This is a charming and refined city, which combines beautiful old buildings with modern ones, wide streets, and colonial squares. It is said to be the most Mexican city in the country, because of the traditional Mariachis and tequila, which is widely consumed. There are many attractions and here are some tips: be sure to walk through the Historic Center, enjoy the Degollado Theater, walk through the Colomos Gardens, and yes, say that you are Brazilian to older Mexicans and football lovers. Just remembering, in the 70 and 86 World Cups, Guadalajara hosted our national team.
After Guadalajara, from inspection to inspection, we arrived in Mazatlan, which is a beach town prepared to receive, mainly, the American tourist. The city has many resorts and expensive and budget-friendly hotels. Luckily for us, it had a good RV Park with all the infrastructure and a SPA at our disposal.
From there, we left for Los Mochis. We have become unaccustomed to stewardship and hope to find, in the next RV Park, the same comfort that we abandoned. But the surprise was not the best. The city was big, but not as cozy as we thought. A little disappointed we decided to go to Topolobampo, a beach that was about 9 km away. Another surprise! It was terrible! It was not our lucky day. We speed to Navojoa. On the way we saw that 50 kilometers away was the city of Alamos, known for the famous "jumping beans". These jumping beans are not for eating, they are grains or seeds that have a larva inside and that move. The city was very small, without much resources. So we decided to go back to Navojoa. The day intended to run 450 km, but it turned into 800 km. Already tired, we stopped at the first hotel we saw in front of us. After many days of sleeping in the car, we even found it strange to sleep in a hotel bed.
The next day, our next destination was not so far away. Just 200 km away was San Carlos, a beautiful place. The very blue sea contrasted with the aridity of the mountains and the giant cacti. Due to the proximity to the United States border and the number of American tourists, English was almost the official language. The city's laid-back atmosphere provided relaxed meetings. And that's how we met a friendly family of Mexicans, who followed us to our campsite. They were from Ciudad de Obregon, not far from San Carlos. They were curious, because of the car, and decided to find out about the trip and take some pictures. After that day, we exchanged many messages by email.
Although he wanted to stay longer, it was time to head to the United States. We learned that have to leave behind places and friends. We knew that we still had a lot to shoot and that many places and people would still come. In addition, we had faith that this would not be a one-way trip. And, on the way back, we still had a lot to know. As it happened. But we'll leave that for later...
Crossing the United States on the West Coast...
On May 13, a Sunday, we left Mexico. We entered the United States through Arizona for good reason. Cesar, a longtime friend, whom we met in Peru, lived in Safford. We only saw each other in a single night, but we became good friends; a story that we will tell when we talk about our trip to Peru.
But, before talking about this meeting, let's situate ourselves in history. We crossed the border from Nogales.
We got into a long line of Mexican and American cars. When it was our turn, we had no problem, except for the curiosity of the police and customs officials. They had never seen a Brazilian Land Rover Defender crossing in those parts let alone heading towards Alaska. At least those who were working, on that Sunday, "Mother's Day".
There was no official search, but we had to talk about the car, and its performance and show how the engine works. Anyway, they were just curious about the trip and our Land Rover. This is because, in the United States, the "Defender" model was a rarity and the few that existed belonged to collectors. By the way, we were offered an amount of 80 thousand dollars for it. The sale of this car was banned in the country because it did not pass the crash test. So, without any stress and very quickly, unlike what had been happening until then, we entered the United States. We were even surprised by the lack of paperwork to carry with us.
We headed straight to an RV Park in Tucson. We got a real bible from RV Parks while we were in Mexico, and we chose this one because it was a "five-star". It had a heated pool, SPA, reading and gym rooms, Internet, games room, laundry, and barbecue. In the spaces reserved for each RV, there was a table, chairs, light, water, telephone points, and an Internet connection. It was a great way to start a new stage of the trip. In addition, we came across huge motorhomes. True luxurious homes. And, coupled with it, there was always an SUV with the same paint. Just to give you an idea, these motorhomes cost up to a million dollars at the time. That's what we found in an RV sales company, which operated next to the campsite.
We parked the car on one of the "sites" that was assigned to us. The curious looked on in disbelief and, sometimes, arrived to welcome and take a look at the car. One of these visitors invited us, unusual to say the least, to a "Latin American style" dinner. This new friend of ours, Fred, was a gentleman, who traveled with his dog Pupi. He asked us to arrive early, so we could drink before dinner that would be served later. Accept. And so it was.
Fred's motorhome was not one of those sumptuous ones. It was like the ones we found here, with a trunk in tow, of the U-Haul type, an American furniture storage and moving company.
Well, we arrived at the agreed time. Fred was very aloof from American culture. He traveled a lot and sometimes referred to his compatriots as "them" or "those people". He got very angry with another guy who was at the campsite and invited us, in the afternoon, to have some Margaritas in front of his huge RV. The guy was from Arkansas and traveled all the time around the United States. He said that he once ventured to cross into Mexico, but that it was a "nightmare". He was scared to death and ran back to the safety of American roads. Fred, who was also with us, had no patience and left. We still talked a little more. He kept asking about Brazil and insinuating prejudiced ideas about Brazilian women. We don't like the subject. He showed us the RV, but we saw it without much enthusiasm and left.
This subject was the initial "icebreaker" and we laughed a lot about the situation. We stayed there, with Fred, drinking beer and talking. Then we ate stuffed quail, which was very tasty. Anyway, it was as Fred wanted. We arrived early, drank a lot, had a late dinner, and left long after midnight when everyone in the campsite was already asleep.
We still stayed a few days in this RV Park and had fun. We met a Brazilian woman, who had lived in the United States for more than 30 years with her American husband. It was a very friendly and helpful couple. We got to know Tucson, which is a beautiful city, with the landscape already very familiar, because it was a setting very similar to northern Mexico. There was the "saguaro" (huge cacti). Many Western films were shot in the mountains there and at the Old Tucson studios. The modern part is typically American with malls, fast food, Walmart, Best Buy, and long avenues and wide streets.
From Tucson, we headed to Safford. The meeting with Cesar was fantastic. There we learned a great lesson. Some people are special in our lives, even without having a daily relationship. They are people who teach us, give us strength, or simply understand and cheer for us. And Cesar was one of those people. We met his wife Donna, who offered us a delicious dinner. We took the opportunity to catch up on 15 years of conversation, although we always kept in touch. We drank and laughed and we are sure that we made Cesar very happy, just as we were also happy with this meeting.
The next day, Cesar gave us two invitations. The first was a lunch at the Lyons Club, where he was a member. Impromptu we gave a lecture for 30 people. The subject was about our trip and life in Brazil. The most difficult thing was when they asked our opinion about border openings. We respond very cautiously. We realized that most of those who were there were very conservative.
The second invitation was an interview for a local newspaper. Luckily, he was a very interesting journalist which helped to flow the subject. This journalist, the son of an American diplomat, had been born in Japan and lived most of his life in Asian countries, where he also worked as a reporter, before going to the United States. As we finished telling our trip, the next interviewee arrived, an 80-year-old man who was a bomber pilot in World War II, and who was in the battle of "D-Day". Very proud, he showed me photos of the time and we talked a little. Unfortunately, we did not attend the interview because we already had another appointment with our friend Cesar.
We stayed a few more days in the city, but as usual, it was time to leave. We left that place so nice and Cesar and Donna, such dear friends. And to this day we talk. Now our communication has become easier through WhatsApp.
From Safford, we made our way: to Phoenix, Black Canyon, Meteor Crater, Flagstaff, and finally the Grand Canyon. Black Canyon is a village that you are only sure you are not in a period movie because the Highway crosses there. Meteor Crater is impressive because it is a huge crater, the result of the fall of a piece of meteor. Flagstaff is a very charming city, and it is on Route 66, reminiscent of some places of the 60s. Anyway, the way to the Grand Canyon was very pleasant, with a lot of green and very different from the aridity of Arizona.
Among other peculiarities of the place, just before we entered the park a large handicraft store, with indigenous props, caught our attention. It was a western movie set, with the owners dressed in character; one of them with a huge white beard. It had a tourist appeal, but well maintained. Even a white, big, docile, and beautiful dog sprawled on the floor. It was so beautiful that we decided to go to him and pet him. He was very receptive to our caresses. Only later did we learn that it was not a dog, but a wolf. Fortunately, it wasn't a big bad wolf.
We entered the park and the big star, without a doubt, was the impressive view of the Grand Canyon. We went to the last observation post in the southern part (Desert View), from where it was possible to see the Colorado River better. This is one of the must-see places for those who go to those parts. It's a show!
Still ecstatic with the beautiful view of the Grand Canyon, we headed to Las Vegas. We pass through the impressive Mojave Desert, a place of inspiration for many songs, and arrive at the most illuminated city on the planet. Whether this is in the Guinness Book of World Records we don't know, but we've never seen so much light and so much brightness.
Las Vegas is a peculiar city. A combination of luxury and garbage, chic and tacky with people of all kinds, from drunks at 10 a.m. to the rich who spend money in fantastic shows and casinos, from tourists in shorts who see the shows for free, from limousines, from couples who get married in chapels, like "drive-thru", of supercars, and everyone betting on the jackpot. We couldn't resist either and bet a few dollars to play. We win and we lose... All of this is part of it. We even met a gentleman there who said he was a friend of "Maria" J We only understood after he said that Maria was Carmen Miranda's secretary.
When we arrived in the city, we went to a campsite. We had no idea that we would stay up all night, with so many weird people. There lived many people who worked in the casinos and those who gambled. It was a coming and going of people who passed by talking loudly and laughing. Anyway, we got to know the weird side that the city hides from visitors. But it was not the end of the world. It was just another story to tell. In the morning, we went to another campsite.
This other campsite was very cool. It had a great infrastructure, with a delicious pool that cooled us from the desert heat of Vegas. As it was a little further from the city, a bus took the "campers" to the city, for a small amount, which was then reverted into coins for gambling in the casinos. And so we had fun every night we were in town.
We took the opportunity to visit the Hoover Dam, which is about 50 km from the city. Hoover Damera is one of the largest projects in the United States. It is a gigantic dam, built between 1931 and 1936, and is one of the responsible for local development, as well as one of the tourist attractions.
We had to move forward. So from Las Vegas, we went to the Pacific coast and stopped in Los Angeles. We toured Hollywood, Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, Venice Beach, and Universal Studios. We stayed in Pasadena and felt firsthand what residents feel to go from home to work and vice versa, with heavy traffic.
After a few days, and already tired of the big city, we realized that we were not far from Yosemite Park. Well, far away, at that time, it no longer existed J It was May 24th, an important date because it was Vera's birthday. We also wanted to see the giant redwoods, go through Tunnel View, and see Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan, and Half Dome. Anyway, the days and nights were especially beautiful, with a brigadier sky. This motivated a celebration with dinner by candlelight and stars (very romantic). There was only one detail, the park is the natural habitat of black bears. They are greedy and have a very keen sense of smell, being able to smell any food left in the car. Our car was our home and was always stocked with food.
When entering the park, it is recommended not to leave any food inside the vehicles. Bears can break down doors, break glass, cause damage, and, of course, fear. To avoid this type of threat, there are iron boxes, bear-proof, to store all food. The boxes are away from the cars. But we decided that we would not stop celebrating our celebration. With one eye on the food and the other on the woods, we make our wish come true. And fortunately, none of them surprised us. We didn't invite them to the party and they didn't come.
Returning to our arrival at the park, as soon as we entered we saw a lady and a gentleman in trouble. We stopped the car and went to help the couple. The gentleman had fallen and was very dirty and bruised. We were worried. We took the couple to the hotel where they were staying, inside the park. We insisted that they see a doctor, but they said that everything was fine, despite the scare. They were very grateful. The gentleman went up to the room and the lady was talking to us. We told him that it was a birthday celebration day and that we decided to spend it there in the park. At the same time, she asked us to wait a while and went to the hotel reception. She wanted to present us with the stay that night. But, despite the attempt, the hotel was full. We thanked him and left. It would be nice to stay at the hotel, but we were already so used to sleeping in our mobile house, under the starry sky, the scent of the night, and the worry about bears, that we were not disappointed. After all, it would have lacked the excitement of our romantic candlelit dinner.
The next stop was San Francisco. We return to the coast, going up HWY 1 and passing through Monterrey Bay (Carmel, Santa Cruz, and other beaches). At the entrance to San Francisco, in a traffic jam, we were surprised by a car that was next to us with a Brazilian and an American waving a small Brazilian flag. We took advantage of the slow traffic to talk a little with the couple.
Our stay coincided with one of the biggest American holidays, Memorial Day. As it would be four days, I had nowhere to stay. So, we decided to stay in Berkeley, just across the Bay from San Francisco.
Still, we took the opportunity to visit the city's attractions: Golden Gate, Bay Bridge, Pier 39 and Fisherman's Wharf, Sausalito, China Town, Nob Hill, Lombard Street, etc., before heading to Sacramento, where a jazz festival was taking place. Many bands and artists performed on the streets of Old Sacramento.
The city was built at the time of the American gold rush. It was the terminus of the transcontinental railroad line. Today the buildings are still well preserved and house restaurants and shops. A very interesting place that refers to the time portrayed in the "old west" movies and their saloons.
By that moment, we had already driven 23 thousand km, but we still had a long way to go to Prudhoe Bay, our destination in Alaska. Therefore, we decided to move on, after a brief stop.
From the northern tip of California, we notice the landscape differently. They had huge reserves of pine trees and many mountains, some of which stand out for their snow-capped peaks. Mount Shasta was one of these mountains, which stood out in the landscape of the small town of the same name. The temperature was also milder. Although with sunny and long days, the nights were very cold. Thus, we crossed the states of Oregon and Washington enjoying the landscape that, we later realized, most resembled Canadian landscapes.
Our last stop in the United States was near Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helena. The first is considered the highest mountain in the north of the United States, with an altitude of 4,392 meters, and can be seen, on clear days, from Seattle and other cities in the region. The second was known for the volcanic eruption that changed the landscape, turning into a horseshoe-shaped crater.
We stayed at a campsite and it was there that we met a couple, Siegi and Roland (in memoriam), that we became friends. This friendship remains to this day. Siegi is German but has lived in the United States for a long time. Roland, sadly, passed away a few years ago. Today Siegi and Chris, his son, live in Austin (Texas), a place we had the opportunity to visit on the way home, as we will tell you later.
Canada and its wonders...
On a Wednesday, at the end of May, we crossed the United States-Canada border. It was very easy and fast. With a simple stamp on the passport, everything was solved. We entered the "Tourist Information" office, very close to the border, and, with brochures and maps in hand, 45 minutes later we were already in Vancouver.
The main city of British Columbia is beautiful, and populous, with beaches and lots of greenery. There are shops of all kinds, from the most expensive and sophisticated to the cheapest, and there is fun for everyone. Soon, he won us over and we decided to stay there for a few days.
We took the opportunity to put an order in the car. The city offered everything we needed to keep heading north. It was time to start getting used to the cold. At night it was already 3 degrees, but during the day the temperature was very pleasant.
We stayed at a campsite in North Vancouver. And, it was there that we met Jonasie Faber, who would become another friend, whose friendship lasts until today. We have already had the pleasure of receiving him at home, here in Brazil, more than once, which was quite fun. Jonasie or Jonas, as we call him, is an internationally known artist. His works are in galleries both in Canada and around the world. His soapstone sculptures and jewelry are all with Inuit motifs. And the most interesting thing, and what made us closer, is that the soapstone used in his sculptures is imported from Santa Rita (MG), which is a few kilometers from Outro Preto (MG). Coincidence? It cannot be. Coincidences do not exist...
Jonasie is from Quarqortoq (Greenland). As a child, he moved with his family to Denmark. As a teenager, he went sailing and later settled in Canada. In addition to being an artist, he is an excellent hunter, and adventurer and full of archaeological discoveries, both in North America and in his homeland. He is a great friend, fun, and very present in our lives. And, he was the one who gave good tips for the rest of our trip to Alaska.
Still in Vancouver, we met Tom, who lived in Whistler, a ski resort not far from there. On purpose, he parked his Hummer right next to our Land, in a mall in the city, because he was curious who would own that car. Therefore, the meeting yielded photos, curiosities about the two cars, and an invitation to go to Whistler.
Whistler is a beautiful place, with many attractions focused on winter sports and a small village. After the visit to the city, without meeting Tom, we moved on. We slept in a campsite with an insistent rain and continued towards Banff. We heard that the Banff/Jasper road was the most beautiful in the world. Look, if it's true that there is any other road more beautiful, we would love to go through it, because the Banff/Jasper road is awesome. Several times we stopped the car to see the bears feeding on the side of the flowery road. A scene to never forget.
Banff is a very friendly town, located in Banff National Park. The Rocky Mountains dominate the scenery. The beauty of the lakes and rivers in the region is indescribable. They are meltwaters that take on bluish-green or blue-green colors. It's all very magical. Lake Louise is the best-known lake and the most represented in photos.
Despite the cold, we camped in the park. From that moment on, it would be very good to take the local rules seriously. Bears roam everywhere. Therefore, the food had to be packed in iron boxes, to avoid serious mishaps.
It was late at night, around eleven-thirty. But none of this prevented our dinner and our wine. There we attended a rescue training in the mountains. The place is very visited by tourists, but not all visitors have the necessary common sense in these places.
We continue to Jasper, continuing along the road elected "the most beautiful in the world". We continue to see bears, moose, and caribou. We saw signs warning about the risk of these animals crossing the road. And there was no other way, we got a tremendous fright with a huge black bear crossing our path. Despite the scare, we had the opportunity to see him up close.
The road between Banff and Jasper is approximately 370 km, but it took us a whole day to cover it. That's because the glaciers are very close to the road and it's impossible not to stop to see better. In addition, the many snowy hills, lakes with different shades of green and blue, and rivers are mandatory stops. It was truly a trip with an unmissable scenery.
In Jasper, we enjoyed the experience of staying in Banff and also staying in the national park. The care for the bears was the same. In fact, from then on we got used to it since they became an integral part of the trip. The flowers on the roads attracted bears, mothers, and cubs. Most were black bears, but we also got to see the brown bear (Ursus arctos), much larger and more dangerous. We came across only two grizzly bears (Ursus arctos horribilis), the most dangerous of all. Both times, we were out of the car and saw it from afar, but it was enough for us to leave the place urgently.
Well, from then on Alaska got closer and closer, although it was still the immense northeast of Canada. The cities were farther away and with fewer resources. After more than 800 km, we arrive at Dawson Creek, a small town that has the privilege of having the "Zero Mile" of the Alaska Highway. We were thrilled to arrive at that milestone, after all, we had already been on the road for many months. We started to see Alaska closer, even though it was still 2000 km from the border.
Alaska HWY is a highway that was built, at the time of World War II, by Americans and Canadians in just eight months and twenty days. Soldiers and civilians were used, many black and indigenous. It is 2,223 km long, ending in Delta Junction near Fairbanks, Alaska.
A brief meeting with a gentleman of Portuguese origin, his wife, and children, who were also heading towards Alaska, and we went towards Fort Nelson and Watson Lake. In Watson Lake, we stayed in a typical campsite in the Yukon region.
The owners were older, good-natured, and fun. You, the teller of scary (stories) about the region and huge bears, foxes, and wolves, left us without knowing if they were just stories or stories. We realized that you were a tremendous joker. To find out what was real and what was a joke we looked at his wife, who laughed at every nonsense he said. Along this road, residents collected pieces from the time of its construction and set up a kind of "memory" or small museums.
And, where we were there were also some building pieces, old weapons, and traps for bears and wolves. They had those creepy moose, caribou, and a bear skull hanging on the wall.
We saw a newspaper article, which was exposed, and read the story. A couple went for a walk. At the camp, in the vicinity, they were attacked by a brown bear. The woman managed to return and call for help, but the man was scalped and almost died. We were impressed with the article in the old newspaper and only when we went to ask if they knew the couple did we realize that the protagonists were right in front of us. The gentleman walked with the help of a cane and wore a cap. According to the newspaper article, he underwent several surgeries but was well. When we asked if they were the protagonists, they laughed a lot in our faces.
The Yukon is a very different territory from British Columbia. It was there that the "gold rush" took place in 1896, with many Europeans and Americans arriving to mine, in search of riches. For those who like comic books, it is good to remember that it was in the Klondike, in the Yukon, that Uncle Scrooge also began to make his fortune.
In this part of the trip, the trips were long, the cities were small and with few inhabitants and the days lasted at least eighteen hours. In addition, the landscape and the huge mosquitoes already referred to what we would find in Alaska.
Thus, the last stop, before crossing the border with Alaska, was Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon Territory, with 20 thousand inhabitants. If we Minas Gerais people like a "story", the Canadians there also love it. It is common to come across the indigenous people of the region, Athabaskan and Tinglit, who descend from the Wolf and Crow clans.
At that point, we were only 500 kilometers from the border and would soon be in Alaska. Anxiety took over when we realized that the next day we would reach our goal. We woke up early, prepared everything, and accelerated... Calm! Our goal was Alaska, but we left home saying we would reach Prudhoe Bay, up there in the Arctic Sea.
Finally, Alaska!! "Who said we weren't coming" ... [sic]
On the eleventh of June, Monday, we left Whitehorse for Alaska. There were only 520 km left to cross the border. The anxiety was enormous. Our hearts were pounding when we saw the Canadian customs. We stopped and talked for less than two minutes with an employee who smiled saying that we would be welcome to Canada on the way back from Alaska... This was the last frontier and we would certainly return...
And so, a few more kilometers we arrived at a big sign that said: WELCOME TO ALASKA. The feeling? Well, first we were silly and paralyzed looking at that sign. Then we took a picture from inside the car. Then, the reaction was to get out of the car and have the biggest carnival. We put on some very loud music and stood there jumping, hugging, laughing, and crying at the same time. Emotion took over. A car passed by, with some people, who stopped to look at our party. But they understood when they saw the car and the Brazilian flag only half full, due to the fluttering throughout the trip, which began in February. We asked one of those people to take a picture of us, in front of the sign and the car. It was proof that we achieved our goal. We've arrived in Alaska!
We have officially crossed the last border. The policeman asked the usual questions, thought a car from Brazil was strange, and made a "hey" face. And we, not even for what the policeman was thinking, put our foot, hands, body, and heart in Alaska. We stopped at the first gas station and bought some drinks for the night's celebration.
Alaska doesn't have many road options. When we passed a place called Tok we saw that the road had two options to follow: Fairbanks or Anchorage. We decided to go straight to Fairbanks. With anxiety and adrenaline at an all-time high, we didn't even realize that, on this day, we had ridden 920 km. About the city of Tok, someone told us that it was originally called Tokyo, but after the attack on Pearl Harbor during World War II, they abbreviated the name to Tok. Whether it is true or not, we do not know, but it is another story to be told.
Continuing on our way to Fairbanks, we stop at the North Pole, the Santa Claus House. He was there, working. A dream of a place. Everything was magical. We get emotional as if we were still children. We were sensitive and allowed ourselves to feel all this emotion. We awaken the child within us. And that was just one of the feelings of our incredible trip that transformed our lives.
And, finally, we arrived at our first destination in Alaska, Fairbanks. We stayed at a campsite, on the edge of a river, with houses on the other bank. The lawn was very green on one side and the other. The river was navigable. Motorboats and jet skis, with people having fun, circulated in both directions of the river. We celebrated being there, had dinner and fatigue hit hard. We slept with a clear day, despite it being past midnight. Still not understanding much about the sounds of the place, with people talking, and birds singing, we had those very strange sleeps, with confused dreams, waking up and sleeping.
At this time, the sun shines for twenty hours. In the other four hours, the night remains lighter than dark, a twilight. Even the birds seem to want to enjoy every moment. After all, when winter arrives, little daylight is seen. Therefore, Fairbanks seemed to be celebrating. It was a constant coming and going of entire families, boyfriends, people running, walking, cycling, by car. Restaurants, bars, shops, and fast food were open 24 hours a day. For us, it was all unusual, very different from everything we had ever experienced. We saw a little bit of everything, even a DC3 plane flying low over our heads while we were sitting at a camping table drinking beer J OR, the squirrel eating the gas hose from our stove. In addition, we did not escape having to wear those anti-mosquito hats (Mosquito Head Net Hat), after bite, and even those old spirals to scare away the huge Alaskan mosquitoes. But we still had a lot to see.
We left Brazil saying that we would go to Prudhoe Bay. We committed to a radio station to send recorded bulletins of our expedition. And there would be our last bulletin. So, we went to a "Tourist Information" in Fairbanks to find out how to get to Prudhoe Bay. The attendant was very cautious in explaining that Prudhoe Bay was a very isolated place and that it was 800 km to the north. The road was not paved and there was only one place for a stop. We should put our PX radio on channel 9 (Emergency) and warn urgently if we notice any smell of oil or gasoline. After all, this was not a tourist road, but rather a road with an oil pipeline along its entire length. It was gravel, without resources and only trucks traveled carrying and bringing supplies and parts for equipment maintenance. We received an explanatory leaflet that we should read very carefully. Despite all this information, we were not scared and left.
At first, we thought we would sleep in Coldfoot, the only place with any recourse on that road. But when we arrived at our first destination, we gave up and decided to go straight ahead. There was just a stop for truck drivers, very boring.
Suddenly, the weather changed halfway through. A black, heavy cloud appeared in front of us. The cloud was very low and scary. The rain was very heavy and with it a drastic change in temperature. From then on the cold was intense. The road was deserted and the large trucks that sometimes passed us throwing gravel everywhere disappeared. We desired to arrive, as soon as possible, and overcome the worst stretch of the way. The last 120 km seemed endless. We started to get a little worried. Prudhoe Bay had two hotels and we didn't make any reservations. The cold was too strong to sleep in the car. Finally, around 9:00 p.m. we saw in the distance, and in the middle of the fog and rain, the light of a lighthouse and other silhouettes that seemed to be of a city. Finally, we were getting there. We feel a great relief.
We arrived in Deadhorse. It is not a city like any other, but a hamlet that houses the workers of the oil fields, which are located in Prudhoe Bay. In addition to the two hotels, it has a convenience store and a gas station, and the rest is on account of some buildings that belong to the oil company. In addition, it had a frozen lake, a lot of ice along the way, and strange machines that looked like they came out of the movie "Mad Max".
After this first vision, we had to celebrate and look for a place to spend the night. We went to the first hotel and the receptionist directed us to the second since a reservation was needed there. In the second and last hotel option, luckily we caught up with the receptionist who was leaving. Finally, we got a very warm room in this hotel built in containers.
It is in these hotels that the people who provide services to the oil company are staying. Therefore, the entry of any alcoholic beverage is expressly prohibited. But, with a little skill, we could not fail to toast that arrival. Relaxing, having a "sip" wouldn't do any harm. That's what we did. We broke the rules. After all, it was 4 long months on the road. And we were in the last city to the north.
The next morning, we got a better look at Deadhorse and found that it was a really strange place. The cold was still intense. Two weeks before our arrival everything was white, with a lot of snow and ice. Anyway, it was time to put our foot on the last point and final goal: Proudhoe Bay.
Prudhoe Bay is home to the facilities of the oil company, whose land is owned by the United States Government, a maximum security area. After explaining the reason for being there, we entered with an authorized person in the company's car. Anyway, we were face-to-face with the Arctic Ocean. From Deadhorse, where the company's gate is located, to the Arctic it is only 5 km. What you see until you arrive in the Arctic are the company's buildings, huge machines, and the pipeline that runs in the open air down Dalton Hwy to Fairbanks.
We will never forget that Friday, June 15, 2001. Until then we had traveled 30 thousand km, 13 countries, in 115 days. We stood on the edge of the Arctic, looking toward the North Pole just 1,300 miles away. We put our hand in the frozen water, to wake up from that torpor and came to the conclusion that everything was real. Real! We made the last bulletin for the partner station with joy. We have fulfilled our mission!
Like everything in life, when we achieve a goal we feel a lot of joy, we are euphoric, but then we feel a little pain in our heart for having ended. That was inevitable.
When we were still on our way, almost reaching Alaska, we didn't quite understand why, for some hours, we felt sad. We didn't know what that was. After much conversation, we discovered that arriving at our destination and back was an inconvenience. After all, at some point, it would all end. It was at that moment that we decided that it was not necessary to "go back". We could just "go." On the other hand, the vision is always different. From then on, we decide not to "go back" but always "go," wherever it is, wherever we are.