Via Francigena Nord
                                          (Canterbury) Calais - Aosta
​
The return of a dream...
 
Our dream interrupted in 2020 by the pandemic came true in March 2023. However, the 1,200 km in 60 days, starting in Canterbury (England), had to be reduced in two stages. That's right, in England, it's only two days...
 
After Brexit, the pedestrian crossing of the English Channel to Calais became a little more complicated. Not all ferries carry pedestrians. It was necessary to know the days and the scarce times for this crossing. Or, as an option, buy a bicycle, which would entitle us to the crossing, and then sell or make a donation on the other side of the canal. Total Non Sense, but that's how it worked. With that, we solved the problem by going directly to Paris. From there we would take a train to Calais.
 
Anyone who travels the world has friends everywhere. So, going to Paris was a great choice because we met Anne, a very dear French friend. The only problem was that France was in chaos. Many strikes and riots in the streets, due to the pension reforms, decreed by President Emmanuel Macron. Strikes, not only peaceful but also violent marches took place in the large French cities. And it was in the midst of all this chaos that we arrived at the "city of light".
 
We took the opportunity to see Paris again. We stayed three days, met Anne, and left by train for Calais, where we began our walk.
 
As we did not know Calais, we took the opportunity to walk under an icy wind that came from the Channel. We provided our "Credentials" and made the last adjustments to leave.
 
Unfortunately, a very strong allergy left Vera a little impaired. As we are always forewarned, we had the anti-allergy, but we needed an ointment that only with a local prescription would be possible to buy. The alternative was to "visit" a hospital. The emergency room was full, which would take a long time for the consultation. So, we decided to go ahead and try to get an ointment that was satisfactory in the next city. Thanks to a very attentive pharmacist, we got an ointment that greatly relieved the itching. And there, our journey began.
 
França - Pas de Calais – Somme – Aisne - Marne
 
This is a region located in the north of France, Haute de France or Hautes de France.
​
Wissant is a tourist village on the coast, close to Calais, but without much resources. It is a long detour between Calais and Guînes, where the walk is not very attractive, except for the company of the water and beach all the time. Then there's Licques, who has a little more resources. We stayed in a cabin, in a very well organized campsite. It was still quite cold, but the cabin was very cozy.
​
In the first days of walking, even though they were prepared, the body felt a little more. Therefore, sleeping and eating well were two essential things.
 
It was still very cold and we decided to leave later for Tourneheim-sur-la-Hem. It was a quiet walk and the highlight was the ruin of a church, on top of a plateau, with a super beautiful view. The small town did not have many attractions, except for the Café de La Maire, a stopping point for hikers. We were well received by Nicole. We learned stories of the people who passed through there. The next day, we left for Wisques.
 
In Wisques we stayed at the Benedictine Abbey Notre Dame. Staying in these religious institutions is always very interesting, not only for the excellent food, but also to get to know a little about the life of the place, the work of the sisters, and their religious rituals, which is the only place where the cloistered sisters are seen.
 
Thèrouanne, the next town, was a little bigger. For the first time, we meet another hiker, an Italian. We took the opportunity to tourists. We went to the museum and to an archaeological site that tells very interesting stories of the city. Rested, we left in the rain for Amettes.
 
We stayed in a small place where the owners offered some ingredients for us to prepare our meals. It was Good Friday. We went to visit the church of St. Benoit, who was a pilgrim saint. Next to the church, we were surprised by a place that staged the death of Christ. It was a large outdoor space with the three crosses, of Jesus and the two thieves, crucified. In a semicircle the entire representation of the Via Crucis. Because it was Good Friday, that exhibition, which was permanent, sounded like a good omen to us. We feel that we have been graced and blessed, once again. The next day, we confidently went to Bruay-la-Bruissière. The next two cities were small, without many accommodation alternatives. Therefore, we count on the hosts to help us.
 
To get to Bruay-la-Bruissière we walked through a forest and saw what they call "terril", which is the tailings of the coal mines that existed there. Today they are mountains reforested by the pollination of birds. Bruay-la-Bruissière is a great city and we stayed at Annie's apartment. Making a parenthesis, the best accommodation of this entire path was the house of people, who opened their doors to receive the walkers. Annie was one of those people. Very friendly, helpful, and concerned about serving us well. She made a wonderful dinner, including a delicious appetizer of currants, wine, cheeses, soup, ratatouille, pasta, and apple pie. And to top it off, the next day a delicious breakfast with a bunny-shaped cake, since it was Easter. We were very well installed in a room that was in the attic. Super cozy. On leaving, together we said a prayer in French and Portuguese, in a chapel that was next to the building. Once again, we felt blessed and set off for another day of hiking.
 
There was a lot of fog when we left, but then the weather cleared up and it was a long but very beautiful walk. We climbed Mont Barafle in the Parc d'Olhain, where many families were strolling, having picnics... We arrived exhausted in Ablain St. Nazaire and missed the house. We didn't see much of the city, but we were recognized by a cyclist who followed us on Instagram.
 
Despite the fatigue, and after a comforting shower and a cold beer, Marc generously took us by car to see the highlight of the place, the Cathedral of Lorette, the Soldiers' Cemetery, and the monument with the names of the soldiers of all nationalities who fought and died there.
 
The Battle of Lorette, during World War I, lasted 12 months. 100,000 soldiers died. A cemetery with 20,000 graves has been built and in eight ossuaries are the remains of almost 23,000 unidentified soldiers. A part of the cemetery was reserved for Muslim soldiers.
 
It was time to leave for Arras, the capital of Pas de Calais. We said goodbye to Kléa and Marc and went to the ruin of the Cathedral of Ablain St. Nazaire. We follow the highway heading towards Mont Saint-Eloi to see the ruins of another Cathedral bombed during the war. And, we continue to stop at every cemetery and memorial of Czech, Polish, French, Canadian, English, German soldiers... We were very impressed and thoughtful about humanity. Wars are stupid. Many dead soldiers were barely 18 years old. And worse, the wars continue to this day. Young soldiers and fathers of families continue to die for the stupidity of unscrupulous men with a thirst for power.
 
The French Revolution and the two World Wars destroyed many of Arras' old buildings. The city is centered on two squares with arcades and gables, the Grand Place and La Place des Héroes (Petite Place). Some attractions include the Town Hall and its Belfry, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The "Boves", is a labyrinth 10 meters below the city. It also has the Theatre and the Hôtel de Guînes, the Abbey of Saint-Vaast, and the Cathedral. The Citadel of Vauban and the Nemetacum site, which is the ancient city founded by the Romans 2,000 years ago, can also be visited.
 
In Arras, we went directly to the Anne Frank Foyer, which is a place to welcome vulnerable adolescents who study and/or work. The Foyer also welcomes hikers for a one-day stay.
 
Upon arrival, we met Clémentine, a teenager who helped us fit in with the customs of the Foyer. With some demands, we need to ask to stay another day, which is not common among hikers who stay there. It was granted and was enough to strengthen the friendship with Clémentine, which still lasts on social networks.
 
Leaving behind Pas de Calais, we enter the Somme department. We arrive in the town of Péronne and then in Trefcon, already in the department of Aisne. The walk between Péronne and Trefcon needs to be mentioned because it had it all. The day started sunny and ended with a hailstorm. We passed through a very strange city, one of those that gives goosebumps and another beautiful one, where we stopped at the edge of a very bucolic river. Then we walked down a muddy road and met a German man who looked like he came out of some storybook. Anyway, we arrived at Trefcon, which has only one street, or road, and we stayed in the only lodging in the place. The entrance was through a huge kitchen that smelled of tannery because the owner made cages for horses. The room was nice, but in the morning we saw that our backpacks were full of ants. We had to get everything out of it, but we managed to get rid of them by turning the room into a real graveyard of ants. And we left!
 
The day was quite cold, but it was a pleasant walk until we arrived in Seraucourt-le-Grand for a new experience. The accommodation was in a "Caravan" (trailer) in a very well-maintained camping and with very clean bathrooms. It was very cozy to see the rain from inside the Caravan, drinking our wine and improvising a dinner. Then, we fall asleep with that good noise of rain falling. It was a comforting night. In the morning we woke up, had a coffee, and left for another day of walking. It was still raining a lot. Therefore, we decided to change our plans. We walked in another direction because we saw that there was a train station that would take us to Laon. Thus, we steal in the game, but very little. The distance to the station was long, but on a paved road and not through the forest and mud, as it would be if we went on the original trail.
 
Laon is a larger city, with several medieval buildings. The Notre Dame Cathedral is beautiful, the chapel of St. Martin, which was once used by the Templars, was very interesting and the Citadel had a lot to discover. We liked the city so much that we decided to stay an extra day to get to know it better. We had some problems on arrival. The water did not heat up and we discovered that the boiler was broken. As it was Saturday, the owner claimed that he would not be able to find someone to fix it. After a lot of blah-blah-blah and a few attempts to make it work, in vain, a plumber repaired it. Once the problem was solved, it was time to get out of town, find a supermarket, which was in the lower part, and make great discoveries.
 
The streets were full of surprises, paintings in every alley and corner of the city, details that only attentive eyes could see. There were some "little dolls" placed somewhere, very discreetly, on the facades of the buildings and cast iron props that hung from other facades. It looked like a "treasure hunt". At each of these "surprises," we stopped to look and photograph. On the other hand, we met the Italian, the only hiker we had met until then, and decided how we would continue our path. The next recommended stop had no place to stay. We then made another "detour" and walked to St. Thierry, on the Marne, already entering the Champagne-Ardennes region.
 
In St. Thierry, there is a monastery that hosts those who walk. We intended to stay there, but we called insistently without anyone answering the phone. Therefore, we looked for accommodation at Isabelle and Frèderic's house. Arriving at the small town we visited the Monastery. There we understand the lack of communication. The sister who was at the reception was very old. She was very friendly, she let us visit the gardens and the chapel. At that time he didn't even need to give explanations because the phone wasn't answered.
 
We met the Italian Marco, who managed to stay at the Monastery. We went to the couple's house. Our choice was very good. Coincidences do not exist... We were the first guests of the house and found out that Isabelle was a hiker, too. We had dinner, talked a lot, and then learned that our visit lit the "pilgrim flame" in her. Isabelle walked again, which had stopped for some time. We still took "luck" to the couple, who hosted several interesting people after us. Among them, a Swiss, who Isabelle commented on the decision to host hikers mentioned our name. Immediately, the Swiss remembered us. Eta small world... This is because not many Brazilians travel on foot in those parts J. We also spoke with Isabelle, who is grateful that we encouraged her to return to the trails and for having brought "luck" in the accommodations. 
​
France - Champagne-Ardennes - Marne
​
Reims, which is pronounced "Hans", is the unofficial capital of the Champagne region. It is a big, busy city, escaping a little from the calm we were used to so far. Despite this, it was good to be there and enjoy what the city offered. The Notre Dame Cathedral is a spectacle, the Promenade is also beautiful and the shopping street is very busy. Again, we met the Italian Marco and said goodbye. Marco had the intention of going faster and we were not in a hurry. One of the lessons we learn by walking is that the "path" is much more interesting than the arrival. We spend the whole year planning and dreaming about the next trip. Therefore, it makes no sense to run away. Age has taught us to be more patient, to go slowly, enjoying every minute and every landscape.
 
That said, and already in the Champagne region, it goes without saying that we took the opportunity to taste some well-known and unwell-known brands. In Verzy, our next destination, we stayed at the house of Odila and Alan Lallement, who are champagne producers. There we had the opportunity to follow the bottling, have a class on production, and have a few glasses of local product. But, it is worth telling how our arrival in Verzy was, before moving on.
 
We left Reims, walking along the canal, with a wonderful and sunny day. We met a French woman who asked what our destination would be. The question made sense because there are two paths: Via Francigena, which goes to Rome, and the Camino which goes to Santiago. We talked for a while and continued. At a certain point, a fine and cold rain began, contrasting with the atmosphere of the departure from Reims. We wrapped up, but we thought that the fine rain would pass soon. We don't put on waterproof pants to protect ourselves. The rain fell heavily with small pieces of ice in the middle of the way. In the middle of the vineyards, some snow began to fall. We get soaked. Still, we saw the markings of the most renowned champagne brands, but there was nowhere to hide. Suddenly, we were no longer feeling cold legs.

On the contrary, the sensation was hot and with a lot of redness. We were freezing. In the middle of the plantation, we decided that we needed to keep warm, changing our clothes for dry ones to continue walking. A mixture of wet clothes and clay went into the backpacks, which was a lot of work when we arrived. But, to compensate for this saga, we passed through a very beautiful forest, which made us forget all the trouble. In addition, we still had the opportunity to arrive at the time of bottling the blend (Tirage) of the "Lallement" champagne. It was there that we learned the entire manufacturing process.
 
After this maturation phase, the Remuage and the Dégorgement, which are the concentration of lees in the neck of the bottle and its removal, the process goes through the addition of liqueur to finish the champagne profile (Dosage), and only then will the cork, the cork wrapper and the labels (Bouchage et Muselage – Habillage) be placed, which is how we buy. It's laborious. Hence, the high price of good brands. Even where they are produced, the values are not softened. It is necessary to pay high amounts for the precious liquid.
 
After this experience, and with everything in order, we left, early in the morning, for Condé-Sur-Marne. The day was beautiful. We walk through forests, grain plantations, and vines and end up next to a canal with a very pleasant landscape and climate. Soon, upon arrival, Mr. Denis, owner of the accommodation, was very friendly and toasted us with a very cold beer and a handful of white asparagus from his production. That day, we had another delicious dinner. 😋
 
The good thing about walking is the unpredictability. Every meter of the path is a surprise. Everything is possible and impossible. The next day was very rainy. We walked alongside the canal. A dull and monotonous walk. At one point, we saw the attempt to save a small deer that fell into the canal. Two men were desperately trying to save him. We don't know the outcome, but we are hoping that they managed to get the scared animal out of the water.
​
In the end, we were compensated with the arrival at a very good hostel in Chalon-en-Champagne. We were the owners of the building. They had no guests and no employees. We were guided, by email, on how to enter, where we would stay, and what was in the kitchen. Anyway, it was all ours...
 
Chalon-en-Champagne is the capital of the Marne region. Although it is a small town, it is very friendly. Among other churches in the city, the Notre-Dame-en-Vaux Church stands out, which was elected a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Le Cirque, the city's former amphitheater (1899), houses the Centre National des Arts du Cirque (CNAC), and the Camp de Mourmelon, formerly known as Camp de Châlons, is a military camp 22 km to the north. It was created at the request of Napoleon III for the practice of military maneuvers. It is currently used for military maneuvers and cavalry training. Despite the rain, we were able to see and feel the atmosphere of the city.
 
To La Chaussée-sur-Marne, we left on a sunny day, beautiful, through a park that flanked the river. It didn't take long and we were in the mud, a result of the rain the day before. On the way, we find military maneuvers and many war tanks on the bridges or other strategic places. But, we continued on our way until we reached the small town and found Monique, a very nice and fun lady. Her daughter Stella, who spoke English, translated most of the conversation for Monique. After she left, we got along with our very little French. We were accommodated in a very old house in the style of the region. This was a farm, which was at the end of the city. Monique took care of everything that was produced on the land. He also took care of the animals and still received guests with great humor.  The city was nothing special, but it was a very pleasant stay.
 
The next stop was Vitry-en-François. Compared to the other cities, Vitry-en-François had its most recent construction. It was more modern. It was there that in 1961 a terrorist attack took place on a train connecting Strasbourg and Paris. Although it was not our goal, due to force majeure, we had to stay in the city for two days.
 
It all started because, in the next city, where we were supposed to go, there was no accommodation. The place we were staying was not available for the next day. We looked for other options, but in the hotel, we found on the internet no one answered the phone. We didn't find anything else in the city. Finally, we got accommodation three kilometers outside the city. We spoke to the attendant, who informed us that there would be no one at the reception when we arrived. Therefore, he guided how to self-check-in.
 
After walking under a scorching sun, in an industrial area, we arrived at the hotel. We were unable to check-in. We called an emergency phone, which we saw on a bulletin board. Only then did we find out that our reservation had been made for Chalon-en-Champagne, a city we had passed through 2 days ago. We called Airbnb, which is where we booked. In the end, we got the cancellation, since this hotel was listed, in Vitry-en-François and not by Chalon-en-Champagne, as it should be. Airbnb acknowledged the mistake and we got the money back. But where would we stay? We decided to go back the three kilometers to the city.
 
Arriving We entered and a gentleman, very solicitous, attended to us promptly. The hotel was very empty and we settled there. The next day, we went to the tourist office to try to solve the problem of the next accommodations, but we couldn't find any place where we could book. We changed our route and headed to Troyes, the capital of the Aubes department, still in the Champagne region.
 
Troyes was a larger city, with an old center and typical buildings of the region, and a very modern part of the city. It was very lively, full of bars and tables on the sidewalks. We enjoyed it, but we did not relax, trying to get back to our original path.
 
Finally, we got a place in Bar-sur Aube. The person who attended us at the "Tourism Office" in the city, told us that we would have accommodation in an inn for hikers. He gave us the address and said that someone would meet us at the door. We waited, but no one showed up. A woman, Josidette, drove down the street and saw us at the door. Minutes later he returned. We said that a person, who we didn't know, would find us. She was not that person, but she solved the problem. He sought the key and accommodated us in an empty building. It was clean and had good infrastructure to receive those who walked. We relaxed and went to see the small town. We were already back on the original path and the next day we went to Cirfontaine-en-Azois.
 
The road was very long. First, we arrived at Clarivaux Abbey, after a lot of ups and downs. The original building, founded in 1115 by Bernard of Clairvaux, is now in ruins. The current structure dates from 1708. On the grounds is the maximum-security "Clairvaux Prison".
 
We met a couple from Belgium, who were doing the route by bike. After a quick conversation, we moved on. We crossed a very sinister swamp. You know that feeling that someone is watching you from afar? Well, that's how we felt when crossing the dark and hard-to-reach swamp.  We stopped in front of a small lake, with a formation of stones in a circle in the water, and wondered who had done it. And the hole in the middle of the rocks, covered by a sheet of water, would lead where? Without answers, and somewhat uncomfortable, we left that bizarre place.
 
Much further on, with a fantastic view, we arrive at Cirfontaine-en-Azois. We stopped in front of the address, and when we knocked on the door a very friendly couple answered us. It was a large house, very well maintained, and a very comfortable suite. At the dinner table were the couple, their son, and daughter-in-law. The younger ones spoke English and translated for their parents. They served a snack and beer and we talked about our path and our life in Brazil. Later we dined and slept the sleep of the righteous, after the exhausting walk of the day.
 
After a hearty breakfast, we went on an easy walk to Blessonville, a tiny community, but with another very cozy welcome. We stayed in a shelter for hikers. With no one, the space was all ours. This was a very lonely path. We didn't find anyone, except the Italian who, at that time, was far ahead. The shelter was equipped with everything we needed. Had a spacious room, a washing machine, a very good kitchen, and all the ingredients for dinner and breakfast.
 
From then on, we had to make another detour, due to the lack of accommodation. We decided to go to Chaumont. So, after a photo with Frabrice, our host, we stopped in Bricon and headed to Chaumont.
 
As the city was bigger, we decided to rest an extra day. It would be necessary to repair the sneakers. One of them was opening his mouth, literally. We bought a super glue and took the opportunity to rest and get to know the sunny city. Corinne, who welcomed us very well into her home, pointed out all the interesting spots to visit.
 
After Chaumont, we went to Marac, on a path without many attractions. We arrived early and waited for Elisabeth, our hostess that day. She arrived and invited us in. We had never seen so many things scattered everywhere. The house dates back to the 1800s. It was huge and typical of the mountainous region. It was so big and so confusing that we got lost. The room we stayed in had two double beds. One of them was so tall that it needed a ladder to climb. Next to our bed, we saw a clown, who looked more like a friend of "Chuck", the killer doll. There was a door that, out of curiosity, we decided to peek at. It was an attic with so much stuff that we closed it faster than we opened it.
 
Elisabeth was very helpful and took us to see a building, which looked like a tower. It was Colombier, a very old place that housed pigeons. In the evening, we had dinner and had a wine. The wine label was so old that the question remained whether it was an aged wine or if the bottle was being reused. And, surprisingly, it was a good wine.
 
Sometimes, we misjudge places. Despite the initial scare, it was great. Elisabeth taught us several shortcuts to get to Langres and even helped us with the next accommodations. Thus, the walk to Langres was very pleasant, thanks to the tips. Entering the city, an icy rain fell. We went into a bar, had a beer, and talked to the people who were there. Then we met up with our hosts Catherine and Thierry.
 
In Langres, we walk the 3 km of the city wall, with a dozen towers and seven gates. We visit the cathedral of Saint-Mammès, which was built at the end of the twelfth century and dedicated to Mammes of Caesarea, a martyr of the third century. And the best, it was a producer of a cheese of the same name as the city and protected by AOC. Our hostess was a "fromager", or cheese sommelier. Catherine made us taste the local cheese and other, wines and liqueurs from the region. And, we know a pit in his house, which kept a constant temperature of 10 degrees. It was a veritable pantry of all kinds of food and drink, which they kept as if they were in a refrigerator.
 
From Langres, we went to Torcenay, a very small village. We stayed at Sylvie and Jean Louis' house. It was a huge, beautiful house with a Hollywood movie garden.  And, again, we had to do another "detour", due to the lack of accommodation on our original path. We went to Dijon, already in Burgundy. Element.
 
France - Burgundy...
​
Dijon was not in the plans, but as it was close it would not be bad to run away there to get to know the city. It was a good surprise because despite being big, it was a lively, beautiful city and great restaurants and bars. It is impossible to miss the Marché des Halles and the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie & du vin.
​
Leaving Dijon behind, it was time to get to know Besançon, the city of our dreams, on this hike. To explain better, since we decided to walk the Via Francigena Nord and saw that we would pass through Besançon, we were eager to enter the city, which was the stage of the French Resistance in a series, "French Village", which took place at the time of the German occupation of France. The Resistance was a movement of non-acceptance of surrender to Nazism. And finally, we would be there, in the historic center, where everything would have happened.
​
When we entered the city, at the same time that we felt that excitement of making a dream come true, we were disappointed. The city we saw in the series was a small village and Besançon today is a big city with many attractions. After the first impact, we set out to get to know it better. We realized that the city, despite being big, had nothing to disappoint. The Cathedral, the Citadel, the Museum of Resistance and Deportation, the house of Victor Hugo... Anyway, it was worth staying two days before heading to Ornans, a small town, but it had its charm.
​
In Ornans we stayed with a very peculiar couple. Laurent was French and Karina was Swedish, but she had been living in France for a long time. Selma was a huge dog that jumped non-stop. She was not from the house but was "staying" in the house, while her tutor worked. The space was large. It was a farm with a small river in the background. We stayed in a separate room in the house. The bathroom was a "green bathroom" style, that is, those outside the home, which does not use water, but sawdust. The shower, likewise, was outside and cold, but as the weather was not hot we used the bathroom from inside the house.
 
The couple was fun and Laurent was very curious about Brazil. I wanted to know about travel options, the Amazon Jungle, and more inhospitable beaches. We had a few beers, and wine at dinner time. We ate the traditional cheeses and, for dessert, an apple pie filled with ants. J That's right, the ants liked the pie as much as we did. It was a funny situation, but Laurent was not upset, he served the pie with ants. The struggle was to push them away to eat the pie. 
​
The next day, after breakfast, we went to Mothier Haut Pierre, on a delightful walk, which started next to the river, passing through forests and villages, with a very beautiful view. Then, rested, we headed to Ouhans.
 
We decided to start the walk a little later because the small town was not very far away. On the way out, we don't know which way to go. The signage and information were mismatched. Because of a boulder that rolled down the mountain, and interrupted the original path, it was suggested to follow another path. However, some residents said that it was possible to pass through the original path and others said that the path was interrupted. So we decided to follow our instinct and on an endless climb, we reached the top of the mountain, where we enjoyed a wonderful view. The surprise was to find a chapel carved into the rock, magical. Further on we find the original path and follow it.
 
We arrived in Pontarlier, a city mentioned in Victor Hugo's Les Misérables. It was in this city that the convicted Jean Valjean presented himself for parole, after being released from the galleys. It was a hard road with a lot of heavy rain at the finish. We stopped at a mall to wait, for two hours, for the storm to pass. It was more than enough time to dry my clothes, eat a snack, and enter the city under a light rain that only stopped the next day.
 
Pontalier is a larger city and is already very close to the border with Switzerland. But we still had one other stop before moving to another country, Les Hôpitaux Neufes. It was a very good day to walk, with lush landscapes, already signaling the proximity of Switzerland. A small setback did not take away our good humor.
 
We booked, through Airbnb, a room in Valerie's house, which was not there when we arrived. We waited a long time until we were able to reach her on the phone. After that, she arrived home and still had to tidy up the room where we would stay. We were a little disappointed and left to go to a supermarket. On the way back everything was already in order. Another couple arrived with whom we had dinner and we had a good conversation.
 
It was time to go to Switzerland...
​
We had a lot of expectations with our arrival in Switzerland. We arranged to meet two hiking friends, Carlo Gattoni, who lives near Montreaux, and Daniel who lives at the foot of the mysterious Gran San Bernardo, on the border with Italy. So, on a very long walk, through forests, crossing the border of Switzerland, descending to the Gorge d'Orbe, or the gorge of the river Orbe, walking along side by side with the river, exiting on an asphalt road and returning, once again, to the forest, we finally arrived at Orbe.
​
Orbe was a small town, with a few attractions, and with a Nespresso coffee factory, which the locals are proud of. We decided to take a very old train to go to Charvonay and there we decided that we would not go to Lausanne, but to Montreaux directly.
​
Lausanne was too big and Montreaux, although not small, was a much more interesting place. We arrived, half lost, between the sea and the hill. We looked at the location of our address, but it was very confusing. We asked an Argentine woman for help. She offered a ride. Accept. It was her path and very kind that she spared us all that climb with a backpack on her back.
​
After the Argentine girl left, we realized that we didn't have the apartment number, only the phone number. Our phone chip was from France, and it serves all of Europe except Switzerland. We stood at the door of the building trying to guess what the apartment would be, when a cyclist passed by. We asked her to call the hosts and it worked well. We were welcomed by the couple who would host us.
​
We stayed one more day in Montreux to get to know the city. We walked from one side to the other on the Promenade, went to visit the Chillon Castle, and the Covered Market, and passed through Vevey. Unfortunately, we didn't see the Queen Studio Experience, which is a museum dedicated to the band. That's because on the day our friend Carlo Gattoni went to meet us, it would be the day we would have a drink at the Casino in the company of Stėve, our host, who worked there as a croupier. We were going to take the opportunity to visit the museum, but it didn't work out. It was a good reason for us to come back.
​
By the way, the couple Stève and Olga, owners of the apartment were super friendly. We were the first guests and gave several tips since we had 4 years of experience in apartment rentals on Airbnb. The two met while working on a ship. Both at the Casino. He was French and had a license to work at the Montreaux Casino, and Olga, a Ukrainian, was waiting for the license to also work as a croupier.
​
Carlo Gattoni is a fantastic person. Hiker and climber, he has the vigor of a young man, although he has already crossed the seventies. He lives in Bulle, in the Gruyère region, and as he says, the mountains are "his backyard". With him, we went to the house of Françoise, his friend, then we went to the town of Gruyère to visit the castle. We saw the presentation of a group of players from Le cor des Alpes, an instrument with a fantastic sound. Initially, it was used to communicate at a distance in the mountains.
​
We tried to go up by cable car to a ski resort, but due to the schedule, it was not possible. She didn't even need to, beauty was everywhere we went. In the evening, Carlo Gattoni hosted an authentic regional Swiss dinner, the Gruyère cheese fondue.
 
The next day, we went to the Gorges Jougne, passing through a magical forest. Then, we went to Maison Cailler, the chocolate factory that gave rise to Nestlé. The highlight of the day was the Chalet du Soldat, which is located on a mountain with a spectacular view.
 
After the climb and lush landscape along the way, followed by the explanation of all the peaks that Carlo and his son climbed, we arrived at the chalet. There was Nicholas, a very nice gentleman, and his wife. When he found out that we were Brazilians, he sang "A Banda" by Chico Buarque, in very clear Portuguese, without knowing how to speak the language. At the request of our friend Carlo, he played Le cor des Alpes, in the middle of the mountains. The music and sound that spread through the mountains made us very emotional. It was a moment to keep forever in the memory. We descended the mountains in a state of grace and without words to describe that moment and everything that Carlo Gattoni gave us in "his Gruyère", as he says. After all this, he took us to Aigles, from where we would make our way towards the Gran San Bernardo.
​
In Aigles, Yolande and Phillipe, welcomed us very well in their beautiful apartment, with a good beer, a wonderful dinner, washed down with a good wine, and a conversation that lasted until very late at night.
​
It was time to leave for St Maurice and then Martigny, where we had another Vera birthday to celebrate. It was the first day of a lot of heat, a lot of climbing, and a wrong one, but it resulted in a shorter path, despite no shadow. On the other hand, the next day we decided to make "our way". It was between the forest, the Rhône River, the beautiful landscapes, and a lot of emotion and gratitude for the blessings of that special day. Martigny was another gift. A beautiful, welcoming, lively, but simple city, just the way we would like to celebrate a birthday.
​
Martigny sits at a junction of roads connecting Italy, France, and Switzerland. One road goes to the Forclaz Pass to Chamonix (France) and the other through the Gran San Bernardo to Aosta (Italy), which was our destination. In winter, the Valais region stands out for its numerous ski resorts in the Alps, such as Verbier.  We were lucky, because it was street market day, with tastings of pizza, wine, and raclette, originally from this canton. A curiosity is that the origin of raclette dates back more than seven hundred years when the peasants who lived in this region had the habit of gathering around fires to stay warm and prepare this food.
​
For Orsières, it was a hard but beautiful path. By the way, what is expected walking in Switzerland are the ascents, descents, and beautiful views. We were looking forward to the proximity of the Gran San Bernardo and to another meeting, this time with Daniel, another hiking friend. The village of Orsière was quite small. Nothing very interesting, except for the landscape. The accommodation was very good and the recovery from the previous day was excellent. We got up early and left for Dranse, the city where we would be staying with Daniel and his wife Stephanie.
​
The hike was also good, with stops next to the river "Dranse de Entremont". We needed to make a "climb" until we reached the top of a bank, which was far above where the river flowed, and which would be our natural path. Despite the weight of the backpacks we managed to climb without problems and after a little more walking we arrived in Dranse.
​
As soon as we saw Daniel's house, we saw him at the door. Next to her was Lizzy, a Golden Retriever who was part of the Via Francigena path in 2018, so 5 years ago. As soon as we called for her, she came running and jumping like crazy. Incredibly, he had recognized us. We were thrilled! It was a delightful afternoon, with a lot of conversation with the couple, their son, and their girlfriend.
​
The house was in an indescribable valley. Green on all sides. At the top of the mountain was Liddes, a village where there was a small infrastructure. We went there to meet and buy some food. From there we would follow, the next day, to Bourg St. Pierre, which is at the foot of the Gran San Bernardo. As everything is close by car, in the evening Daniel and Stefanie invited us to dinner at a restaurant in Bourg St Pierre. We were able to see a little of what awaited us the next day. We would spend the night in the village, before climbing the mountain and crossing the most famous border on this path.
 
Daniel and Stefanie decided to follow us to Bourg St Pierre. They picked up the two mules and also took the two dogs, Lizzy and Valy. As the latter was very young, it had no limits. Sneakily he ate the bread we bought to take away. It was very funny. J During breakfast, Valy went upstairs to the room we slept in and ate all the bread that was on top of his backpack. He left only the plastic packaging. 
 
On that day, the walk was very fun and lively. Lizzy was very well-behaved and knew the way. Valy, on the other hand, disappeared, ran after the groundhogs, and then came back with the look of someone who had done something. The mules carried our backpacks. And so we arrived at an interesting accommodation. We met a Frenchman, who took the opposite route, and Tommy, a German who later followed us. Daniel, Stefanie, the mules, and the dogs returned home. The next day, they would meet us again to climb the Gran San Bernardo.
 
Finally, or Great Saint Bernard...
 
This was a long-awaited day. This is a passage between Switzerland and Italy that brings a lot of apprehension to those who intend to cross. It is not always possible, due to weather situations. As we were approaching this stage, the news was that the passage was still closed. The "Giro d'Italia", a well-known cycling competition, which would pass through there, had changed its course due to insecurity and the risk of avalanches. We were waiting for what the crossing would be like. But, Daniel and Stefanie had a lot of experience in the region and decided to cross paths with us.
​
Early in the morning, a couple of friends arrived bringing the mules and the two dogs. The backpacks were placed on the mules. We agreed on a place to meet halfway. And they left.
 
We went to get water. In the fountain, we find Tommy, the German, Darren and Jolene, an American couple, Sthéphane, a Swiss, and Rijk, a Dutchman. We all climbed together, with anxiety and expectation of what was to come. At the agreed place, Daniel and Stefanie met us. And from there, they were our guides.
 
Part of the way was made by trail and part by road, which was still closed to cars. The dangers of the path were the hard snow that melted and the ice on the slopes that fell in avalanches. With all caution, we continued to see the grandeur of the snowy mountains, the ice that melted forming rivers, and our Pekingese in front of that inhospitable scenery. After a long hike, we arrived at the steepest and narrowest part, with snow and ice everywhere.
 
It was unbelievable that we were there making this dream come true. And, we arrived at the shelter in the afternoon, with cold weather and a fine rain beginning to fall. Daniel and Stefanie made their way back in the cold rain and we went inside to warm up. This shelter is the only alternative there. It is located at the crossing and border of the two countries and as the name implies, it is the "home" of the dogs with the same name, São Bernardo. However, in the cold season, even the dogs are removed from the mountain, only returning to the milder climate. And, it was our frustration, that we arrived before their return.
 
We were very moved. After the rain stopped we decided to walk a little further and see that mountain that causes so much fascination to hikers. The silence, the calm, the frozen lake, the snow, the melting ice, the white, all of this left us in a state of ecstasy. Then, convinced that we had managed to climb there, we joined the other hikers for dinner, with lots of conversation, wine, and an exchange of experiences. It was a night not to forget.
 
Early the next day, we left to cross the border, which was a few meters from the shelter. But that was after the blessing of the walkers/pilgrims.
 
Finally, we arrived in Italy. It was time to go down the other side of the mountain, in a wonderful setting. At first, we were in a group, but over time we grew apart. We wanted to enjoy that unique moment. It was not necessary to run but to enjoy step by step everything we were experiencing.
 
Below, the scenario was not much different. Saint Rèmy-en-Bosses was one of those places where we would live forever. One of the residents came to greet him. We enjoyed the view of the mountains. It's a beauty that's hard to describe.
 
We walked through forests, beside rivers of thaws, which flowed with full vigor until we reached Etroubles, in the Valle d'Aosta. There we slept in a cabin, in a very suggestive campsite. Etroubles was one of the villages through which Napoleon Bonaparte passed in March 1800 towards Marengo, where he forced the Austrians to accept defeat and withdraw from northern Italy.
 
Once again, we walked with our new friends part of the trail through the forest and next to a canal. Then, each one went at their own pace. We stopped in a small town to rest, have a coffee, and say goodbye. From then on, each one would go their own way.
 
Finally, with great emotion, we saw the sign that signaled our arrival: AOSTA. As always, it was a mixture of relief and sadness to finish the path. As we have been through this feeling several times, we decided to reconsider the feeling and just enjoy that moment. After all, our trip would not end there. We had plans to meet Luiza again, whom we met while walking in Sicily, and rest for a few days in Cinque Terre...
​
Cinque Terre...
​
After a three-day rest in Aosta, reviewing the place, meeting Luiza again, and enjoying the city, which is incredible, we left for another adventure. This time, by train. Adventure because the distance and the exchange of trains, took almost a whole day. We arrived in La Spezia, the city where we would stay, with a train full of people who got in the middle of the way in Monterosso al Mare.
​
Explaining better, Cinque Terre stays on the coast of the Riviera Ligure. It is located between Punta Mesco, near Levanto, and Cape Montenero, near Portovenere. It comprises the communities of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Riomaggiore, Corniglia, and Manarola, hence the name Cinque Terre, or Cinco Terras.
​
La Spezia, is the second largest city in Liguria, after Genoa. It is close to the most visited Cinco Terras in the region. We chose this strategic place because it is quieter and cheaper than staying in hotels, inns, or Airbnb in the most popular and sought-after cities. We went further, we stayed in La Spezia Migliarina, which was an even quieter location and with easy access by train or walking. The Airbnb was very cozy, with a delightful garden for a happy hour.
​
Our host was the one who explained to us all the dynamics of the place. It was better to buy a kind of train passport to visit the communities. We still had the option of going by boat or walking through the mountains. We decided to buy the passport because to walk through the mountains it was necessary to show the "pass".
 
We left very early to try to avoid the crowd. The trip was very smooth. We thought it best to go to Monterosso al Mare, the most distant community in the first place. Then we went to Vernazza. There, the "tourist" had already taken over the small town. After getting to know it, we decided to walk to Corniglia. Needless to say, the view was beautiful and worth the walk, but the path was also full of tourists. It was necessary to dodge people all the time.
 
And so, we continued through the Five Lands, enjoying nature, dodging tourists, and asking permission to take some photos. It was very tiring, but it was worth it for the beauty of the place. Many people repeat the route or visit one by one, but we who walk through deserted trails and small towns, are a little uncomfortable with the amount of people.
 
We decided to go to Sarzana, one of the cities we passed through when we went from Aosta to Rome. We retraced a stretch of the path and walked in other spaces less crowded with tourists. We went to Portovenere and walked through La Spezia, learning about its history, and visiting the tunnel built to house the population in World War II and other places. All this at alternative times, while tourists crushed each other on the train to get to know the Five Lands J. 
 
It was time to leave.  We went to Lisbon, where it had all begun. We arrived in the middle of the feast of Saint Anthony. We are right in the center of all the celebrations. We enjoyed the party, met friends again and after a few days it was time to return home and start thinking about next year's journey.