Via Francigena de Sicilia
Magna Via Francigena: Palermo - Agrigento
Via Francigena for the Mountains: Palermo – Messina
Breaking the 3-year fast...
In 2020, we prepared a walk along the Via Francigena Nord. It would be 1,200 km in 60 days, starting in Canterbury (England), crossing by Ferry Boat to Calais (France), crossing part of Switzerland until crossing the Gran San Bernardo, arriving in Aosta (Italy), which was where we left in 2018 towards Rome. Suddenly, we were surprised by the pandemic and had to cancel everything in 10 days. In the face of all the chaos that has ravaged the world, we received a voucher from the airline with a validity of 2 years, that is, until June 2022.
It was a long and sad period of fasting, meetings with family, and friends, and walks. We have witnessed the deaths and controversies in our country and so many things that we prefer not to report because it is already known to everyone. In fact, for us, it was 3 long years, because the last walk had been in 2019. Francigena Nord was an unfulfilled dream, until then.
In April 2022, we saw that our voucher would expire soon. Therefore, at the drop of a hat we decided to travel. We researched the sanitary conditions in the countries we would pass through and each country had a different rule. With this, we have once again given up on the Via Francigena Nord. We looked for alternatives here and there and decided to stay in one country, where the rules had been loosened a little more. And, within the country, we look for a "supposedly" quieter place to walk. We chose Sicily because it is an island, presumably with greater control.
The path would be shorter than usual, but we were happy to be able to walk from north to south of the island and through the mountains, getting to know the people, and enjoying the landscapes and beaches of the island. And we went to Catania, the second largest city in Sicily, on the east side of the island. And it was a nice surprise for us, who knew nothing about her.
We arrived late at night at the airport. We took the last bus to the city center. We got off in a lonely place and walked through ancient houses, narrow streets, and alleys until we reached a large square with tourists in the streets and restaurants. A few more blocks we arrived at a place where we had booked through Airbnb.
We were welcomed by a very friendly family, Giacomo, Dalila, and their little son Santiago. It was a warm welcome, almost midnight, in an amazing place with everything we needed. It was a well-deserved rest from a long and tiring journey.
The next day, when we woke up, we looked out the window and saw all the dusty cars. We thought they were abandoned cars. Then we learned that it was dust from the Etna volcano that, so close, gave rise to the name of the main street of the city, Via Etnea, from where we can observe its grandeur.
We stayed in the city for two days, before leaving for Palermo, in the north of the island, where the first route south would begin.
Catania is not very big and the historic center was where we were staying. We met Gino, a friendly Sicilian, who gave us the "Credentials" of the way and gave us some tips about the city. The credential is a kind of passport for hikers, who open doors and discounts at the reception sites, in addition to being what endorses us as reliable people.
We went to visit the Piazza Duomo and the Cathedral. Then we went to Pescheria. This was not only a fish market, but it is also where the best products of the land are found, which are purchased by local people, tourists, and restaurant owners throughout the neighborhood. Via Etnea is where the trendy shops are. We visited Piazza dell'Universita, the garden of Villa Bellini, Via Crociferi, some of the many churches in the city, the Roman Theater, and Porta Garibaldi. Finally, we spent the day walking and enjoying the famous Cannoli and Limoncello, typical of the Catania region.
For a while, the city was missed, but we would return at the end of our stay in Sicily, resuming contact, and walking through the streets and beaches of the city. It was an idea to visit the Etna Volcano, but it was not possible because it was in activities and visitation was prohibited...
Starting with Magna Vie Francigena: from Palermo to Agrigento – 1st Way
We went by train to Palermo, which is the capital of Sicily. Its population is practically twice that of Catania. Despite being a big city, it was not difficult to locate us in the points of interest. We stayed two days, without much haste because, after Agrigento, which was our final destination on this path, we would return to Palermo before starting the second path. The surprise this time was due to our host who sang the Anthem of the whole of Brazil. We were open-mouthed listening... Without understanding, we asked him how he knew. He said he was a history teacher but did not explain his interest in the anthem.
Sunday was a great day to visit the Ballaró Market, which attracts many people in search of local products and tourists. The Cathedral of Palermo is a must-see. We spent the day walking. We went to the Marina, the "Quatro Canti", which is on one of the corners of the trendy Vittorio Emanuelle Street. We saw the Palace of the Normans and entered and exited alleys and streets.
We started our path on May 9, 2023. That day, we walked 25 km to Santa Christina Gela. The weather was not the best. It began to drizzle as we arrived in Monreale, at Monte Caputo. We saw the whole valley and the city under fog.
Monreale is a cute little town. The cathedral is a spectacle. When we passed in front of it, we saw the door open and entered. A gentleman, who was doing the cleaning, said that it was not open to visitors, but as we were already inside we had the opportunity to see the richness of its interior. The mosaics illustrate the three books of the Bible, Genesis, the Gospels, and Revelation. It was not possible to see the cloister, but it was worth it for the beauty and peace of a beautiful place and just for us.
We continued walking, and at a certain point, we were approached, in the middle of nowhere, by two men who were in a car. They said they were doing a shoot about "walkers" and asked if we could be filmed. We didn't even hesitate and said yes. Anyway, we were filmed, we gave an interview and we never knew who those two were and where that shoot would go. We simply forget about this detail. We were focused on the road and the rain that fell.
We arrived at our destination wet and happy. We were greeted by a lady, who looked more like the owner of the city. When we entered the village, which had empty streets, but with a full bar, they soon asked if we were looking for Francesca. Waving yes and she soon arrived. We went to an apartment with a kitchen available, which allowed us to make dinner and prepare for the next day.
In the evening we received a communication that the next day's path was very complicated. With the rain, there was a lot of "fango", practically insurmountable. As we already know, from other ways the so-called "fango", which is a sticking mud that makes it impossible to take five steps without having to clean the excess, we worry. In addition, there was a stretch where we would have to make a detour because next to the river was flooded and the water was waist-deep in that place. We went to sleep and left it to decide what to do the next day early.
These are the mishaps along the way. We continued in the middle of the fango, but, unfortunately, we couldn't go ahead and had to resort to a ride.
The next town was Corleone, which became known to the mafia. But, apart from the mafia and the Mafia Museum, Corleone is a very interesting little town. The people we met were very friendly and helpful, like Marialice, who was the one who welcomed us.
Prizzi was our next stop. On the way, we got some broad beans from a gentleman, which they eat raw. In addition to being tasty, they are very nutritious. The sun was very hot and the heat had already manifested itself. We stopped at a fountain to get water and met another gentleman who worked in the region. While we were talking to him, two other Italian walkers arrived. They were Marta and Luiza, who lived in Valle d'Aosta. We immediately became walking companions and friends. The four of us were the only walkers on this entire journey.
On that day, a mishap happened. While we were crossing a farm, three dogs appeared and surrounded us. In addition to the scare, we had to go back. But that was the only way to pass. It was a narrow trail. We had the idea of going through the bush, very close to the fence and trying to fool the dogs. We observed that when we crossed the fence, to the outside of the farm, they stopped barking. And so we did, we took a huge turn, going around the fence, but when we were getting close to the gate one of them appeared barking and surrounding us again. Fortunately, the others did not show up and we had to face the problem head-on. We crossed the gate and, relieved, continued.
Later on, we met Marta and Luiza and told them what had happened to us. They passed by the same path, but without being tormented by those dogs. It was then that they commented that they had the whistle to scare away dogs because in that region many dogs were free. We had already read some complaints about this, but we had no idea what we would face ahead. Two days later we were surrounded by 3 huge dogs and it happened a few more times. The dogs were a torment for us. Despite the risks, because we never knew what the reaction of the canines would be, we did not let ourselves be shaken and went ahead. Scared, but we went anyway
This was a hard path, due to the dryness of the climate, which is influenced by Africa, and the long and steep climbs. Despite this, we had many pleasant surprises. The Sicilian people are very receptive and playful. On one of those days, we stopped in a small town high up on a mountain. The climb was difficult, but the view of a Café with tables on the sidewalk was great. We sat down to rest and cool off from the scorching heat. The owner of the place soon saw that we were "walkers" and was interested in knowing more about us. The two Italian friends arrived and we lost count of the time we stayed in that super nice place. The walk would still be long, but that long strategic stop did not bother us.
We learned many local stories. One of them was that an Argentine had bought a house for only 1 Euro. That's right, 1 Euro! We were introduced to the Argentine and his wife.
In some Italian cities, the population has decreased or almost disappeared. Parents have already passed away or children will live in larger cities. The fact is that the houses were empty. To bring back more residents, some of these houses were sold for symbolic value, upon the commitment of the new owner to restore it, which is not cheap. In addition, it is necessary to live on-site. We had heard of it, but we doubted the veracity. However, we have been able to verify that it is true. There were even other houses in the same situation.
Speaking of the receptivity of the Sicilian people, on the road between Sutera and Grotte is Rocalmuto, the land of Leonardo Sciascia, who was a writer, novelist, journalist, and political activist. And, as a result, a lot of things in the city revolve around him.
In this small town, we stopped at a café to rest and were distracted by seeing a beautiful dog, one of those huge white dogs that surround us when we are walking, but there it was a sweetness in the shape of a dog. He arrived with two children, who entered the church to attend Sunday mass. The dog stayed at the door waiting for mass to end. Every person who entered the church he looked at with a poor face to let him in. But the attempts did not work. Finally, he lay down in the portal and waited patiently.
Making an "aside", this dog of the breed, the Maremmano, is genuinely Italian. They are docile, but they are guardians of sheep and cattle. Therefore, they try to scare away anyone who comes close to the area they watch. We just don't know if they attack, in case there is a reaction that they feel threatened. The truth is that they scared us for real. And the worst thing is that there was not always only Maremmano. Sometimes, there were other more aggressive breeds. We even saw a Pitbull, who fortunately was inside a fence.
Continuing, while we were at the Café we were approached by Mr. Pina. He was a middle-aged, talkative man who was interested in us because we were Brazilians. He had already come to Brazil. We talked for a while and decided to say goodbye to Mr. Pina and continue our journey. But, he offered to show the city. We decided to accept the kindness. He took us to the Theater built between 1870 and 1880, which was beautiful. We saw Leonardo Sciascia's house, which was mandatory in those parts, and the Salt Museum. At this last stop, the man who was in charge of the museum decided to make us an offer, a huge stone of salt. J We thanked him and said that we already had a heavy load to carry on our backs, but he suggested that we tie the stone to our backpack. Faced with the insistence, we had to walk to Grotte with the extra weight. It was a beautiful stone, but it was a gift at the inn where we stayed for anyone who wanted to appreciate its beauty.
We walked for a few more days, sometimes accompanied by Italian friends, sometimes alone, under the scorching sun and the dryness of the Sicilian climate that spring. However, on the last day, we purposely met along the way, which was our luck. We had already been warned of the loose dogs in this last stage. There was no point in asking the owners to arrest them. And there was no other. At a certain point, we had to stop and be calm. With the help of the whistle to calm and scare away the dogs, we managed to overcome the problem twice, the first on the road and the second in the middle of a thicket.
We were arriving in Agrigento, the last city on this path. And to our delight, we entered the Cathedral as the bells rang at noon. We hugged each other and got emotional. It was a very arduous path, not because of the distance, but because of the geographical unevenness, the heat and dry weather, typical of the region at that time, and the dogs that did not give peace. A path that started with a lot of rain and ended with unbearable heat. A path that brought us new friendships, taught us to deal with fears, and understand our limits.
Via Francigena through the mountains: from Palermo to Messina – 2nd. Caminho
After visiting Agrigento, we took a train to Palermo, from where we would leave for our second and longest journey. Towards the train station, we met Marta and Luiza, our Italian friends. We said goodbye and there we set the next meeting for when we were going to do the Francigena Nord route, which ended in the Valle d'Aosta, the place of origin of the two friends.
It was great to have returned to Palermo. We had the opportunity to get to know the city more and visit other tourist attractions. This time, the city seemed to have more tourists. They disembarked from the huge ships, some to stay and others just to visit during the day.
It was time to set out on the new path. On the first day, we decided to go against the suggestion of taking a train to a nearby town. We decided to walk during the chaos of the periphery and busy roads. We stopped for a coffee in a nearby town. It was the most expensive coffee we have ever paid to date. And it wasn't even the best coffee. But, a funny fact happened. While we were resting, a gentleman passed by and asked if we were Ukrainian refugees. J We thought it was funny and said no. We explained that we would walk to Messina. He looked at him with a very suspicious face. He didn't understand anything. This is because, unlike the first path, this route was still unknown. As it was a new route, there were no signs in some sections. GPS was our salvation at times, especially while we crossed fields, mountains, and a lot of tall bushes.
This first stretch to Bagheria and Altavilla is still very close to the sea. Altavilla, as its name suggests, sits high up and has a gorgeous look. The next stop would already be in the middle of the mountains. At the last minute, we decided to take a turn and go to a beach and spend Vera's birthday. We got an Airbnb in Cefalù.
Cefalù should be a separate chapter. The city is charming. As in other parts of Sicily, prehistoric evidence is also in Cefalù. The Byzantines and Arabs also passed through there. In addition to the Historic Center, with the Cathedral and Piazza del Duomo, the Lavatoio Medievale, and many other attractions, we took the time to climb to the Rock to see the Temple of Diana, the Citernas and other points, in addition to the stunning view.
Despite the icy seawater, the beach was a delight, especially in the late afternoon with the sun still at its peak. Then, it was to sit on the balcony of our apartment, which was on one of the main streets of the historic center, and enjoy the coming and going of tourists. All this washed down with a good wine or a few beers.
After three days at the beach, we resumed our path towards the mountains. The departures needed to be very early with the weather still cool. At nine o'clock the heat was already unbearable and the sweat came down in spouts.
Some curious people wanted to know about us. Other times we "tried" to talk to some locals, but without understanding the dialect, we gave up. The way signs were insufficient and GPS remained our salvation to reach the destination. Sometimes, the city stood out from a distance, but we knew that until then there was still a lot to go up and down. When I arrived, I still had a lot to climb, because most of the cities were at the top.
The fatigue started to get bigger and bigger, and the heat too. Until we began to realize that the water we drank was not enough. We didn't have the slightest desire to pee. Only then did we realize that we were entering heat stress. We were dehydrating. That's when we decided to interrupt the walk.
It was a very difficult decision for us who planned our arrival in Messina. We study the path. We knew it was difficult, but we didn't know the weather. Anyway, the path beat us this time. But what we learned was very important. It is necessary to know our limits and know how to stop when necessary.
At first, we were sad and upset, but then we assimilated. We did what was necessary. As in life, the path and the walk are not always easy and do not always go as planned, but it is necessary to take other motivations from the experience. And so it was with us, we reinvented another trip...
From Messina to Taormina, Syracuse, and back to Catania
We did not arrive in Messina on foot, as planned, but arrived by train.
One thing intrigued us a lot. We saw trains that indicated Rome-Palermo or Milano-Palermo and vice versa. We were surprised by the fact that arriving in Sicily implied crossing the sea to enter Messina. We were thinking about what the logistics would be like. Did the passengers get off the train? Did they cross by ferry and then take another train to Messina to continue their journey? No! Only when we arrived in Messina, we saw that the passengers did not change trains, but that the train got on a large ferry and crossed the sea towards Messina. They disembarked on the railroad, continuing their journey. It was necessary to see it to believe it. After this great discovery, we visited the whole city.
Some say that Messina is the most beautiful city on the island. Messina is a beautiful and modern port city. It was rebuilt due to wars and the earthquake of 1908, which killed almost half of the population and covered up its millennial history. Little is left of the Historic Center. We visited the Chiesa dei Catalani, the Madonna della Lettera Column, the patron saint of the city. Among the sanctuaries, we highlight the Clock Tower that is next to the Cathedral. At noon, a complex mechanism is activated and several bronze statues move, giving a 12-minute show.
Some people prefer to stay on the beaches on the outskirts of the city. An interesting tour is to visit the Capo Peloro, and the Faro Tower, which are accessible by bus. We took the opportunity to explore and get to know the city and enjoy the view on the other side of the Strait, already on the mainland, from the Neptune Marina. We cross to Reggio Calabria. It was worth a lot for the boat ride and the view of Messina through the Strait. It was also worth getting to know Reggio Calabria, a city with a large promenade, and very busy shopping streets. In short, a super nice city.
It was already intended to stay a few days in Taormina, one of the most visited cities by foreign tourists in Sicily. Arriving at the Taormina-Giardini station we were enchanted. The train station is very beautiful and was once the setting for one of the films of the Godfather trilogy.
Taormina is high on the mountain. It is an almost vertical city. Its most famous beach is Isola Bella. The city and the view from up there are, without a doubt, spectacular. But we prefer to stay closer to the sea, in Giardino-Naxos. I spent six days in that paradise discovering the most interesting places.
In addition to exploring the beaches in the region, we also decided to explore the paths to Taormina and then to Castelmola which is right up there. Tourists usually go up to Taormina by bus, but we faced a steep climb to the village. Few venture to Castelmola. We couldn't resist the temptation and went up there. A long staircase led us to a Chapel in the rock. We sat down to rest a little, enjoy that peace, and calm the intense heat outside. Because it was excavated in the rock, it was very small. No pun intended... divinely providential!
We continue our ascent and right in front of us, we come across an indescribable and frightening scenery at the same time, the Etna volcano. Luckily for us, we saw a rare phenomenon. Etna opened a second mouth. It was fantastic to witness the phenomenon, but a little sinister too. He was active and from there, it was possible to see well. Too bad we didn't see the flames at night, which must be beautiful and scary at the same time.
Arriving in Castelmola we wondered what it would be like to live in those heights. It was impossible to imagine. But life there went on normally. People were fun.
We had already been recommended by Ettore, who was the owner of one of the inns we stayed in, to visit Bar Turrisi. The entire bar is decorated with female and male private parts. It's so fun, part of the village followed the decoration of Turrisi.
They say that down every saint helps, but it is not so when we have the scorching sun on our heads. On the way back, one more stop at the chapel of the rock, and slowly we arrive back to Taormina and Giardino-Naxos in time for a good swim in the sea.
The apartment we stayed in Naxos was very nice. There was a large balcony where we ended the day having a wine and looking at the nuances of colors of the sunset. Tourists and residents walked along the waterfront in search of restaurants, gelaterias or just to have the cool of the night.
Faced with the fear that Etna would erupt, Vera drew up far-fetched and unfeasible plans. It would be an escape that we would never be able to execute... She kept observing the volcanic rocks on the beaches and concluded that if the volcano erupted, the lava would reach us... All this was motivated by the news that earlier that year Etna breathed fire and the lava descended, the airport in Catania was closed and the presence of a new mouth could be a risk. This new mouth blew off shortly after we left, but no evacuation of locals and tourists was necessary.
In this atmosphere of reverie, we woke up one morning with a strong smell of smoke. We opened the balcony door and the smoke was intense. We saw some neighbors opening the windows and looking without knowing what was happening. That was one reason to think that the volcano had erupted. We saw our host, who lived upstairs, hurry out and turn the corner. We thought, there must be some guidance and procedure in such a situation, but we did not know. In a short time, he returned and we learned what happened. A man had set fire to a tree. The action was interrupted, the smoke dissipated, we calmed down and life continued quiet in that paradise.
As we still had a few days left, until our departure in Catania, we went to Syracuse, the most Greek city in Sicily.
Syracuse is a city to be discovered on foot. Ortigia, which is an island, connected by a bridge to the mainland, is the oldest and most historic part of the city. There are archaeological treasures, the port, markets, bars and restaurants. Syracuse has very few strips of sand. It is a port city. Some beaches, close to the city, are accessible by train. One of them is the Bianchi Fountain, which is fifteen minutes from Syracuse.
In addition to the Temple of Apollo, the Fontana di Diana, Duomo, Belvedere of Largo Aretusa, the Maniace Castle, the Archaeological park houses the Temple dedicated to Zeus, Ear of Dionysus, the Necropolises, the Greek Theater, and much more, which takes half a day, at least, of visitation.
But the real must-see was the sunset seen from the Marina, in Ortigia. On the last day, we sat down to have a wine on a bench right in front of the sunset. There were several sailboats moored, when we saw a Brazilian flag waving on one of them. It belonged to the couple Mário and Marina, their son and a friend who were sailing. They invited us to come in and we exchanged experiences, we from our walks, and we from navigation. It was a beautiful farewell to Syracuse. We returned to Catania. We explored the city more, the beach, met friends we made, and thus ended our trip to Sicily.